Eternal Wardrobe/Letters From Quarantine
“In this situation, the most obvious can be well hidden behind the clouds of uncertainty. Realising this can be frustrating, but it is also an opportunity to focus anew on what really matters.”
Ansgar Sollmann
How to begin an article without saying “in times like this” when we are experiencing time in a completely new way? Just some weeks ago, nobody would have believed to be thrown into a situation like this that we are now experiencing so intensely. Around the world, life has come to hold, and we see systems unravelling in real-time.
Words by Anna Rosa Krau & Dörte de Jesus
Whilst many of us are challenged by the ripple effects of life in lockdown, it becomes painfully clear that even physical distancing itself is a privilege. “It means that you live in a house large enough to practise it. Hand washing is a privilege too. It means you have access to running water. Hand sanitisers are a privilege. It means you have money to buy them (via ANAAK).” Many people all over the world don’t have these privileges, and there is tremendous suffering among the most vulnerable. “In response to the pandemic, many major fashion brands and retailers are cancelling orders and stopping payments for orders already placed, even when the work has already been done, taking no responsibility for the impact this has on the people working in their supply chains,” reports Fashion Revolution. According to global trade union IndustriALL, “millions of garment makers have already lost their jobs as a result of the virus and have no access to social or financial safety nets to help them weather this storm.” This April, the seventh remembrance anniversary of Fashion Revolution Week comes along with a new tragedy of monumental proportions and shows us how desperately we need to address inequality and act in solidarity on a global scale.
In his recent epic essay “The Coronation”, author and cultural philosopher Charles Eisenstein finds humanity at a crossroads that could either lead to further separation, inequality, and forms of totalitarianism or to a new foregrounding of solidarity, care, and responsibility for each other and life on planet Earth. Which path we will choose is on the mind of many. Fashion trend forecaster Li Edelkoort expects “a global recession of a magnitude that has not been experienced before” as well as forthcoming hardship. Yet, at the same time, she is hopeful for “another and better system, to be put in place with more respect for human labour and conditions.” She predicts the initiation of “The Age of the Amateur,” and paints a hopeful picture of “local industries and activities gaining momentum and people-based initiatives taking over with bartering systems and open tables, farmers markets and street events, dance and singing contests and a very dominant DIY aesthetic.” There is much at stake, and the future is wide open. We must remind ourselves that we are not just bystanders. We each play a part, no matter how small or how large, in shaping the changes that will unfold.
At Lissome, we’ve been very quiet in the past weeks. We needed to feel our way into this overwhelming moment and take time to slow down, to let everything sink in without rush, to simply experience, and to cautiously reflect – on the new empty pages, possibilities, and paths that lie ahead of us. Days come and go, and time stretches, blurs and distorts beyond recognition. Our efforts change and gradually become less … or at least less important. Our appearances change too. But what does it mean when life as you know it comes to a hold and you stay at home for days, even weeks and, who knows, maybe months? Whilst we were thinking about an adequate response or just a way to show the turmoil in our souls, we became more aware that what gives us strength often lies in the things closest to us – in our homes, our loved ones, our own inner lives, in making and creating, and in simple and grounding things like our routines, memories, breathing, and sunshine.
Realising that we’d like to search out for the answers to these questions beyond ourselves, we turned to “our home” and to where our heart lies, our much-loved contributors and Lissome community, our source of inspiration and network of support. We asked you to send us your thoughts, ideas, feelings, and visual responses to find out about your special circumstances, your reflections on what this time means for you, for your relationship with your garments, and possibly for the world (of fashion) at large. And we sent you some questions to ponder: What within your daily routines has changed and what has it made space for? What do you miss the most? How has your relationship with your outer surroundings and your clothing changed? How do they contribute to your inner well-being? What could fashion be when it moves beyond just production and consumption? How do you hope that this time of emergency will bring about change?
From your responses, we attempted to stitch an emotional visual quilt – weaving a special piece of cloth that binds us together at this very moment in time. A poetic, reflective, timeless yet temporary band-aid, as insufficient as only an attempt can be. And, hopefully, this story can reflect on the changing perspectives freed by our shared physical confinements.
Amie Berghan, Co-foundress of Sustainability 5.0, Auckland: “These times we find ourselves in, feel both chaotic and exciting. I’m constantly finding myself in emotional contradictions – experiencing both grief and excitement simultaneously. Feeling this deep sadness as our current paradigms collapse around us and the fall-out that so many find themselves caught up in the middle of. The death, the loss, worry, hunger, economic breakdown ... all this contrasted with this certainty that lives in my bones. This knowing that after the breakdown comes new life.
My greatest prayer right now is that we allow for the gravity of this moment to permeate our cells. To change us and the way we see the world, forever. My greatest prayer is that we drop the judgment that accompanies our movements, our cultures, our personal values and we embrace the complexities, the nuances of humanity, we celebrate each other’s differences, we value life above all and we recognise we all have our own version of the truth – neither wrong, nor right, but different from each other. May we learn to stand fully and unapologetically in that truth, and celebrate when another does so too.
This traditional Tajik dance dress from when I danced as a young girl is my most treasured and loved item in my wardrobe. I have been wearing it since I was about 9 years old, maybe even younger. Several years ago now, I altered it so that I could wear it as a sort of coat. As a young girl I loved the drama and the stories that were held in this dress, and still, today when I put it on I feel like I walk with the love and courage of women upon my shoulders. I feel the stories of the women who poured their love into hand embroidering this dress during a time where chaos and war were all around us. This dress was an escape for me. A way to transport me into magical and colourful worlds. Today this dress reminds me of the powerful way clothing can transform us, transport us to other worlds, lift us. It reminds of how the stories of all who own, wear or touch it weave their own vibrational threads of story into the cloth.”
Kati Lanhe, Founder and Designer of KM by Lange, Barcelona: “Danushka, my 9-months old baby, marks my routine within this quarantine period. I literally follow my mini-boss and appreciate these priceless moments. Deep inside, I know that things would be different if the lockdown hadn’t occurred. So I am taking it as a gift. I miss the fresh air, mountains, nature, birds singing, rivers, and spring blossoms but I also know that nature needs to take a break. We enjoy family moments, the small things in our daily routine, and understand once again that we need so little to be happy. Like everyone right now, we live in a moment of awakening, now more than ever. We question everything and especially how we will shape the world after this crisis. We question how much we need, and regarding fashion whether we need seasons, new clothes, and for what in particular?
I am a big lover of vintage clothes and unique handmade treasures that I find in different corners of the world. I also love to discover new small brands and artisans and support them. But with time passing, my wardrobe is getting smaller and smaller. My goal is to reduce it to the size of a travel bag to feel the lightness of being. My most treasured item is a golden necklace that my grandmother gifted me the last time that I visited Ukraine. She is 92 years old now and she explained to me that she gifted it to herself when she got her first salary as a doctor. I am excited about the idea that she didn’t receive this gift from her husband or family and just bought it with her first own salary. It’s aligned with my values, and I treasure it as a talisman and share my grandmother’s philosophy beyond the generations. I included Danushka in the pictures because, in this quarantine period, she is literally a part of me.
I think this time of emergency will make us question our ways of being and, of course, make us a little more mindful, conscious, supportive, and awaken. People now are more supportive and more human. Finally, we had to slow down, and we now have time to think and be better. Who knows how it will be afterwards but I hope we’ll be able to learn the lesson. We definitely understood that we are all one, we are all connected, and our actions impact on the life of others. It’s time to leave our egos behind and think about our common future.”
Alice Waese, Jewelry Designer, New York:
Handstitched and covered in paint
Like a spreadout Cezanne
More like a Cy Twombly
Browns and pinks and soft green
The coronation of Sesostris
And like he said:
“The past is a springboard for me … Ancient things are new things. Everything lives in the moment; that’s the only time it can live, but its influence can go on forever.”
They are patched over the knee.
I like to imagine they were worn by Camille Claudel, fascinated by stone and soil
Knees in the earth
Annelie Bruijn, Photographer, Amsterdam: “Usually, in the mornings, when everybody leaves the house I’m on my own or at a shoot or appointment. But now, we’re all at home, and we start the day with home-schooling in the morning. Luckily, we have a garden and a small field behind the garden where all the kids from the neighbourhood play together. I live in a bit of a community. A few years ago, we moved from the city centre to the north of Amsterdam which is much greener and quieter. It feels so warm to be surrounded by all kinds of different people who really like to help each other, and share different equipment for the garden, share cars, and look after each other’s kids. I hope we can share more with each other, and create a more equal society. At this moment in time, I really enjoy the growing and blossoming of nature. I’ve never found it as inspiring as in these days, it gives me so much hope!
One of my favourite treasures is an old necklace made from real amber that a special friend of mine gave me years ago. She bought it in Yemen in the early Nineties. I hardly wear it but I love to look at it and feel it. My friend died eight years ago, and it reminds me of her. She was a very special character and taught me so much; she was a very good and original photographer. When I look at the necklace and touch the amber, it reminds me of her story. She bought the necklace during a trip when she was taking pictures for a Dutch magazine. She was accompanied by local men in beautiful traditional clothing, carrying big Kalashnikov rifles with them. At the time it wasn’t safe to travel there on your own, but she was this small but strong and independent, red-haired lady, and I can really picture her among these beautiful men.
I’d like fashion to become more personal and precious again. As a 10-year-old, I was very excited when my mum brought me back a Laura Ashley dress from a trip to London. For years, I felt like a princess in that dress. My mum and I also used to make our own clothes. We got inspired by these designer clothes that we couldn’t buy, so we just made them ourselves. I think nowadays everything is so easily available that it feels almost meaningless.”
Sabrina Theissen, Photographer, Berlin: “Life can be beautiful with less if what is left is what you love. Passed on to me by my mother, lovingly worn, dyed, and mended over and over by me, this crocheted shawl now amplifies the warmth of the sun on my daughter’s skin. We renew the focus on the essential connections, attend to the little things, and attempt to see the bright light shining through.”
Catherine Allié, Founder of We are KAL, Ladakh, India: “I am lucky to be spending this time in a serene place in nature with the person I love. My partner and I are living in Ladakh, India, in a rented room but are outside every day to work on our future house and garden. I am far away from my family and friends in Germany. Here in India, we have just entered a lockdown extension until May 3. Now more than ever we realise the gift of working from home and we are glad that we made this decision in the early days of KAL. We value the flexibility of being home-based, and find it in the social structures of families in the rural areas. Our teams in Ladakh, Assam, and Himachal Pradesh have their looms and dye pots at home along with their spindles and knitting needles. Nonetheless, these times are challenging for all of us. Our dear friend Katherine of Wandering Silk has launched a series of excellent interviews with her partners and craftspeople on how Covid-19 has impacted them and their work.
In this time of physical distancing, there is a longing for community. As all the shops are closed, we are getting the things that we would usually buy from the market from our neighbours. Especially the seeds, plants, milk, vegetables and even some alcohol. It’s a good feeling to share and ask for help. I hope that the close-knit community regains its importance, and within this community the determination to help each other, look after each other, and be present. For me, this is a combination of friends, family, neighbours, and small businesses that I support.
There is less of a “schedule” now and more of a flow of the daily activities. I am awake later than usual and I sleep for longer. When I wake up, I see each day as a new opportunity. This has been a change as in my normal life, each day has a particular schedule and task, already planned in advance. So instead of writing and following a daily to-do-list, it is now an imaginary monthly to-do-list.
My most treasured garment is a top that I wear closest to my skin. It was made five years ago and is the first garment I own that was made by my textile company. It has been worn a lot, dyed, repaired, the fabric has become soft and these days, it’s never ironed. I have very few outfits that I wear these days. There is the “garden and work outfit” which is my partner’s clothes. Then there is the “inside outfit” which is pure comfort. And then there is the “outfit to visit family and go to the market”. at this time, I enjoy the family and market outfits the most because they make me feel more social, more out and about. I look in the mirror before I go out and I also wear lipstick. I miss the liveliness on the streets, I miss the mingling.”
Paula Delgado, Founder and Designer of Ound, Uruguay: “Deep in my heart, I am afraid. All my close family is scattered around the globe, in different countries and continents. We’ve learnt that travelling was modern and being global was an advantage but in extreme situations like this one, one just wants to have one’s loved ones by one’s side. It shows that, actually, the most important thing for a person is their relationships. Things and places don’t matter, it comes down to the basic being together and sharing. These days, I find joy in taking care of the ones around me, my partner and his kids – cooking for them, helping the kids with school work, and growing vegetables in the garden. At this point, I feel that growing food at a family level is the ultimate demonstration of love in uncertain circumstances.
Like most of us, I think, I try to be comfortable and comforted by my surroundings and the clothes that I wear. I try to keep a tidy and cosy house with inviting spaces, soft lighting, woollen rugs and blankets, nice and calm music. I have been listening to a lot of classical music lately, Chopin, Debussy. It brings me a calm joy while working and reading. Comfort is the quality that I’ve treasured most for the past years. When I say comfort, I do not refer to sneakers and sporty clothes but garments and fabrics that are kind to my skin and my senses. Soft tactile fabrics, natural scents, clothes in which I can move with freedom, and that are pretty, feminine, and timeless.
My most treasured item is a gold bangle that I received from my grandmother. I have been wearing it since I was seven years old and I cannot take it off. I only took it off once in my life, when I had a medical exam, and afterwards, I went to a jeweller and got it welded back to my wrist. I felt naked without it, I felt I was losing my roots, the little ones that I had at the time. I’ve always lived abroad and had almost no contact with my extended family, my parents, my brothers. As a South American, it is easy to deny one’s origins. We somehow underestimate our culture and wish we were born in Europe or North America instead. So this bracelet was the only thing that kept me close to my origins in an unconscious way.
Fashion is a way of communicating, it has been so since ancient times; a construction of symbols that depict a time and a society. For the past decades, these symbolisms have become confusing because of fast fashion and systematical copying of ideas and trends. Fashion trends have become so popular that we could be dressed like a punk one day, and like a lady two weeks later. It has become meaningless. But now we have been forced to stop and we realise that, actually, we do not need all these clothes. Production and consumption are out of hand, this is not a healthy system. Health as a concept has become very important and we understand that we have to take care of our health, everyone’s health, the planet’s health. Hopefully, we will see fashion as a meaningful symbol again, as a symbol of truly creative self-expression – not as a way of competing with each other but as a way of belonging, grounding, and reaffirmation.”
Yannick Schuette, Photographer, Berlin: “Six weeks ago, I travelled to the countryside to visit my parents for a few days before starting my work routine again. I never imagined I’d end up staying with them for such a long time ever again. For some people, this sounds like a nightmare, but thankfully, this is not the case for me. My parents moved into my grandparents’ house two years ago and they are rebuilding it completely on their own. Everything in my daily routine has changed. I have almost no work at the moment. I’m spending most of my time helping in the garden or reading books. Everything has slowed down. I enjoy this freedom, and I’m aware that it’s a very privileged situation. I’m very grateful I’ve had the opportunity to leave the city behind and spend this time surrounded by nature and calmness.
The biggest problem for me personally right now are the closed borders. Traveling has become a huge part of my daily life over the past few years, and suddenly it’s stopped. People (like myself) that are in a long-distance relationship are facing some difficulties at the moment. Living in two European capital cities might be a way of life that won’t work as easily anymore after the pandemic, and my partner and I are already working on a solution. Traveling freely is a gift we will hopefully all start to appreciate more (and also use more wisely).
When I came here, I had packed for a maximum of five days, and since then, I haven’t even touched the more “fashionable” pieces that I have with me. Over the past years, I left some basic and cosy pieces at my parents which define my daily wardrobe now. Nobody cares about looking fancy here, and neither do I. The picture I’m contributing shows a washed out, basic hoodie jacket. I bought it in 2015, right before I left for Australia, my first long trip outside of Europe. I was wearing this hoodie there all the time, and I still do now. It’s cosy, and I will probably keep it forever.
Many people have shown their solidarity during this crisis, some going beyond their limits each and every day. It is paradoxical that through social distancing, our communities are growing closer. Many have realised that their actions immediately affect others and their well-being. I think this feeling of solidarity will continue long after the restrictions are loosened. Our appreciation of community, family, and friends will be stronger. It’s important not to forget our European neighbours. Our most valuable community is the EU, and it should be in all our interest to defend it. I genuinely hope that nationalism and racism will not see a long-term surge due to this crisis. How the EU is dealing with refugees makes me so angry. Apart from laying bare the cracks in our system, we are seeing ourselves confronted with our privileged situation on a global scale. So many things are taken for granted. Our freedom is beyond value, and we have to defend it while also adjusting it to meet these global challenges. If we continue with the status quo instead of making long-term, sustainable and ecological changes, the consequences will be dire. This crisis is our chance to create fundamental change.”
Jack Johnstone, Photographer, London: “Fashion, in all its senses, has been a concept I’ve been contemplating a lot over the past three weeks of quarantine. Both as a consumer but also as a member of the industry. I believe fashion has a real power to empower; garments and our infinite approaches to their look, feel, meaning, and purpose has to be one of the main ways in which we as humans choose to express ourselves. Whilst people’s reverence for the concept of fashion varies hugely, I believe virtually nobody is untouched by it, therefore making it a presence in all of our lives. From working in fashion for the last five years, in both its good and bad sides, fashion is a hugely important force in my life ...
Surely, there has been no better time to assess the importance of fashion; our intentions for its uses, the sourcing of its materials, and the importance we assign to it – all can be re-considered in the vacuum left by this global pandemic. As for practicality, its importance undoubtedly remains, and I believe it certainly retains a hugely important role in our sense of self-expression. However, in the light of so much of our known world being reframed so quickly and so drastically, I feel, for me personally, it’s taken somewhat of a back seat …
Throughout the past few weeks, I’ve found myself somewhat freed from the daily routine of carefully choosing my clothing. I’ve subconsciously slipped into ‘comfort over style’ and have felt the better for it. A feature I’ve noticed is my increased appreciation of certain ‘special’ items; these might be my well-made, well-worn Blundstone boots or the socks I save for ‘special’! These and the simple items I’ve worn every day have become ubiquitous for me with the current experience and, after reflection, I would even say their constant presence holds a certain comfort? I’ll be interested to see how getting dressed will feel when we go back to something approaching ‘normal’…
The jumper I’ve chosen was knitted by grandmother Sheila around ten years ago. She was thrilled when I asked her if she’d make me one; it seemed so odd to me that she was surprised by my keenness. I think it’s such a beautiful piece of work; it’s speckled, duck-egg-coloured, and the delicate work around the neck and cuffs are so wonderful. More important though, of course, is that Sheila created it. I think, subconsciously, I knew I was asking for something to treasure ...”
Mandy Kordal, Founder and Designer of Kordal, New York: “My daily routine has become slower, gentler. I’ve been able to make more space for the creative process, to create artwork, music and writing that doesn’t have to result in anything, doesn’t have to be visible to anyone. It’s been liberating to be creative without the pressure of a required end product. I hope I can continue to make this a part of my practice after all of this is over.
During my walks outside I’ve become more aware of the subtle things, the smell of the air, insects, plants, and the sky. It reminds me of being in the desert, where at first glance it seems like there isn’t much life, but the longer you remain still and observe, an entire ecosystem comes alive. I walk a similar path each day and every time I see something I hadn’t noticed before. I wonder if I’ve been drawn to these micro observations because what’s happening on a large scale is just too difficult to comprehend or emotionally process.
Comfort, always comfort is what I treasure in clothing. This was true even before the pandemic, but lately I’ve found myself treasuring the pieces that feel truly soothing. Like my favourite textured wooly sweater that feels like a warm hug, it’s always close by and is one of my most cherished garments.”
Karen Rosenkranz, Trend Forecaster and Ethnographer, London: “In these days of suspense, I am humbled. Reminded again how beautiful life is. Everything has changed within such a short time. Yet, my day to day life is not so different from how it was before. There is a lot of pain and suffering in the world right now. I feel that. Yet, in my immediate environment, I am safe and protected and the stillness is creating many moments of connection, inspiration and pleasure. I realise just how privileged I am, too.
I am excited by the possibilities that now arise. Ideas that have been waiting to happen. Let’s use this opening, this space, to manifest them.
My ‘eternal wardrobe’ item is a cropped, knitted jumper by VON SONO. The loose cut makes it like a blanket. You can wear layers underneath, but it feels good on the skin, too. My partner calls it ‘the sheep’. Like it has a personality, a life of its own. What makes it so special is its versatility. Indoor, outdoor, it looks good with anything. It feels good always. It is one of many items I have bought from Sono (the designer) over the years. I love her consistency, her clothes are both timeless and fresh, they are made with care. I have a relationship with the maker and the item. There’s a resonance.”
Sophia Schwan, Stylist, Börnicke by Berlin: “Emotionally, this has been a very intense time for my family and myself so far. We’ve discovered far more about each other and ourselves than we could have thought possible. We are not used to spending this much time together for such a long period. Now, after a month of confinement, our relationships with each other have reached a new level of understanding and patience, and I am immensely grateful for this lesson. At the same time, our days are filled with sunshine (worryingly though, it has not rained in almost four weeks) and being outside, cooking, and walking around the village, which currently looks like an impressionist painting thanks to the arrival of spring.
I am constantly inundated with clothes because of my work. My life at home is an escape, far away from stores and the bustle of the city. I think it is an important time for everyone to reevaluate why we buy things, how much we buy and what we buy. Clothes are a status symbol, a way to express ourselves. We are our own canvas, and now, during this beautiful slowness, we can start with a blank canvas and find out how we want to paint ourselves. Clothing has so much power. It transports emotions, creates solidarity, and is a memory vessel. If designed with care, produced with thought and love, under the conditions that an artist paints a painting, fashion is no longer just a consumption commodity but an heirloom, an artwork. All the steps required to create a piece of clothing need to be given just as much attention as the final product. Memories, colour, comfort, and ease of wear are the qualities in garments that I treasure now.
I feel wide awake and more alert and aware than ever. I want to spend my time as wisely as possible, and therefore I am trying to reflect, share thoughts and ideas with fellow creatives as much as possible. The situation in countries such as India and Bangladesh is horrific, particularly for those working in the textile and fashion industry. I am working on self-education and hoping that we can find a way to bring aid to those facing an existential crisis due to many Western brands not paying for their orders. Hundreds of thousands have fled the cities, literally walking for thousands of kilometres back to their home villages, that is, if they made it, as thousands have died on the way, due to hunger, exhaustion, and thirst. This pandemic has laid bare the fundamental cracks in the established systems around the globe and how desperately a new, sustainable world order needs to be created. I hope that this is our reset button. Our planet is falling apart, and yet there has been no fundamental change taking place because we have not been forced to change our course until now. We are facing something we have no control of and that brings about true humility.”
Ingrid Krau, Professor for Urbanistics, Munich: “The retreat from the world, which came so sudden and in such an unbelievable way, is a new experience for me that I face with acceptance. I find my favourite belongings inside my head. By being old now, there are so many memories and thoughts I collected throughout the years. Now I suddenly have the time to reconsider their meanings. I try to look at them from different views, and I leave some unnerving ones behind.
I started reading some scientific books on epidemics in former centuries, which show us the uncertainty of individual life on earth, even though populations as a whole did survive. I remember that former students of mine suggested that living in cities should be as dense as possible to serve an urban lifestyle. They did not know anything about the dense urban way of living in former times, nor about the „Spanish flu“, which had been a part of the life of their great grandfathers and -mothers. We had forgotten this as a society. Looking at the new situation, we will have to relearn and reconsider how to live together. Digitalisation, new vaccines, and stay-at-home-practises will change our lives, accompanied by a new awareness and resilience that changes our thinking. The garments we wear will turn into dialogues with ourselves.
As time passes, a respectable number of clothes fill my wardrobe – some of them I cannot leave to waste, they are a part of me, filled with sorrows and happy memories of past times. As I am still creative in my way, which means mostly writing, I spend my time polishing words, thoughts, and sentences. My daily outfit has to respect this. But when I go out, I select one of these saved pieces and wear them proudly, as statements of myself to the world.”
Ryoko Hori, Botanical Therapist and Founder of Ryoko, Berlin: “I am taking the current moment as a big pause, a necessary break to reconstruct our life again. I have to be much more creative now in order to do anything within such a limitation. It is like a period called Edo in Japan. For over 250 years (between 1603 and 1868), the country was isolated from the world, except for the restricted opening of two ports. As a result, a lot of interesting culture and arts (which are now considered ‘Japanese traditions’) were born and developed in that time.
My most treasured garments are a dress and a jacket of A-POC by Issey Miyake, made with the artisanal craft of Japanese indigo dyeing. I got them more than 15 years ago. It is a very simple look, but the making process is pretty complex. A-POC means ‘A Piece Of Cloth’. The garments are made without sewing: the patterns are programmed in waving machines, and once the fabrics are woven, you just need to cut the pieces off according to the patterns. That’s it! The garments are there, no need to sew. Then these seamless pieces are hand-dyed by a skilled Japanese craftsman with Aisome indigo, which is actually a medicine. Due to its powerful anti-bacterial and deodorising properties, it heals your skin, and the indigo protects the garment from moth.
Fashion for me is not just something ‘to wear’. It is an idea, an inspiration, and a philosophy. It is not something to consume. Some garments of mine, I don’t even have near me but they live within my mind and keep me inspired. I wish for fashion to move on to another dimension, for example, to artisanship instead of mass production – one of a kind pieces of art with which you spend your time with. It doesn’t mean that you don’t wear them but instead, you have many more interactions with these garments; such as smelling, watching, touching, retouching, and wearing them as you wish.”
Ansgar Sollmann, Photographer, Berlin: “My mind is connected and intertwined with outer circumstances, events, places, and, of course, people. In a situation, in which one is deprived of much personal interaction while mainly spending time at home, the borders of the different aspects of oneself begin to blur. Driven by impulse and emotions, the value of each fragment can vary and it is easy to lose oneself for some time. In this situation, the most obvious can be well hidden behind the clouds of uncertainty. Realising this can be frustrating, but it is also an opportunity to focus anew on what really matters.
The world will be different when this moment in time has passed. Some already present developments will be accelerated. One, I believe, will be the loneliness of us people in a furthermore digitalised and monitored world. In other ways, our world will still be the same. We will continue to face the challenges we faced before. And we all will still have the most basic needs a human can have. To love and be loved, to experience this world freely, to exchange our thoughts and to grow. I hope that when this crisis is over, we will all celebrate a newly appreciated solidarity and look at ourselves as a huge community with tolerance and respect for all living beings because we need each other. For now, it only remains a dream in a hazy mind.”
Anne Schwalbe, Photographer, Artist, and Maker, Werben an der Elbe: “As I have been working from home as a freelance photographer and artist since 2011, not so much has changed for me. Also, I am an introverted person, and I’ve read that the current times are easier for introverted people. I now spend more time in my little old house in the countryside and work from here. It’s still very rustic and needs to be refurbished. But I think, I will also spend more time here in the future – I have so many ideas here! It’s nourishing for my creativity.
I always wear clothes that have protective qualities. My big sweaters and scarves might be some kind of protective shield. One of my most-treasured garment is a hand-knitted cardigan that I bought some years ago in a second-hand shop in Munich. I think it looks a bit like a knight’s armour. I feel very protected when I wear it. It is very heavy. And so warm! Actually, I don’t wear this jacket very often because it is so warm. But I always have it outside of my closet. I want to see it and admire the beauty of this jacket.
I very rarely buy clothes. I am one of these people who have a kind of “uniform”. When it’s cooler, I wear a thin undershirt, a shirt, and a woollen sweater that I’ve sewed. And trousers, socks, and so forth, that’s it. There is so much I think about, so I don’t want to think about my clothes too much. The qualities that I treasure now are the qualities that I always treasure: good natural fabrics like wool, linen, or cotton. I believe in long-lasting quality. Pieces that you wear for years.
I think (and hope) that the importance of small, local communities is very visible right now. A change to more small, local communities would be great! I think locally-produced food is the most important. On the other side, I appreciate the contacts that I have around the world. Many people who buy my work live in other countries. So I think a mixture of very local communities and international exchange would be the best.”
Olivia & Anna Nicholas, Founders and Designers of Actually Existing:
Thoughts that we had in March and April 2020:
”This won’t be so bad. I’ll tend vegetables and herbs, bake organic sourdough and read. I’ll be able to read everything, now. I’m desperate for a proper rest anyway, and I’ll have so much time now, without having to go to work, I might even sleep in past 7 am. No, 8.
And of course, there are no toilet rolls left. I should have been waiting outside the second they opened. And anyway, why aren’t there already laws against toilet roll accumulation?
I don’t care anymore. I hate all my clothes. I should pile them all up outside and incinerate them. People are dying and I’m worried about this outfit.
But if we can’t buy from or even talk to our suppliers, how will we make anything? And actually, if all the shops close and no one spends any money, all the casual workers will just be fired, and then just live on rice, and then everyone will be fired and we’ll sell nothing and have to quit.
Oh shit, Matteo’s parents are in Verona. They must be in their 70s, surely.
Well, they’re saying some people don’t even have any symptoms! Just out there, feeling fine, sitting in cafés!
I can’t look at the news anymore. After I saw all those refrigerated trucks in New York, I can’t look.
Oh god, not a sore throat. Please. Please. Please.
How odd, to notice how it feels to not be completely hyperactive. To notice how it feels to sit still.
I should just wear pyjamas. But no, better not. They have holes. But then there is mum’s patterned twin-set with matching sash and headpiece from 1973 … Why not? It’s not like anyone actually ever cared whether the clothes they wore were fall/winter 2020 or not. Right? We probably don’t even need to wear clothes anymore.
People need slippers. Lovely, elegant, well-made slippers. And someone has to make them.”